Motorcycle Owners Club

Honda CG125 but also some universal motorcycle information

Honda CG125 Brakes

< Servicing

Rear Brake


Free play (slack, before brake works) from the brake pedal to the ground should be 20 to 30mm (use a ruler).


You can adjust the free play with the nut on the brake rod on the back wheel.

Check the brake light comes on afterwards when rear brake is applied,
if it does not see adjustment wire in Light Bulbs section in Basic Fault Finding page.


There's probably a brake wear indicator
(if not see How to remove and install the wheels in the Bike in the Tyres page to find out how to remove the rear brake),
press the brake pedal down and look at the top of the arm that moves on the back wheel as you press the brake pedal,
look for a small arrow on the arm (may need to be cleaned) and watch it move towards the mark
(a piece of metal sticking out) on the drum as the brake is applied.
If the arrow hits the mark when the brake is fully on, the brake shoes need to be replaced.
Replacing the brake shoes is pretty easy
see How to remove and install the wheels in the Bike in the Tyres page to find out how to remove the rear brake.
I recommend the EBC brand of brake shoes,
you should find most motorcycle shops sell them or can order them (especially in the UK).

Front Drum Brake

It should have 20 to 30mm of free play (slack, before brake works) between the lever tip and the handle bar,
you can adjust it with the nut on the brake lever.
See Clutch cable page to find out how to adjust the nut.
There should be a brake wear indicator like on the rear brake, see Rear Brake section above for more details.

The front drum brake can lose braking performance due to increasing resistance.
The cable may need oiling (see Clutch cable page) or if really bad needs to be replaced.
The pin on the brake may corrode (depends on time and weather) and increase resistance substantially
(I cannot advise on how to sort it yourself).

Of course the brake shoes (brake material) also varies in quality and performance.
I recommend the EBC brand of brake shoes,
you should find most motorcycle shops sell them or can order them (especially in the UK).

Sometimes a leaking fork seal can drip oil which may get in to the brake drum.
If this gets on to the brake friction material, the results will be bad.

Front Disc Brake

Check brake is not Binding

If you're in any doubt after doing the following, ask a mechanic to check for binding, they should not charge you,
if they try to, find another shop / mechanic.

If you do not have a centre stand, it's very hard to work out if brake is binding,
unless it's so bad it's hard to push the bike
or you find the brake disc is warm or hot after a ride when the brake has never been used.

Put the bike on its centre stand;
make sure the front wheel is off the ground by pulling up on the handlebars if necessary.
Then spin the wheel forwards and backwards with your foot (while standing next to the petrol tank).
Binding in the forwards direction is a real problem.
In the backwards direction it only makes it hard to reverse the bike,
this can hurt your back and unless you are strong, it can make the bike seem very hard and heavy to reverse out of the garage.

To work out if the brake is binding too much.
Rotate wheel until its air valve is easy to see.
Then spin the wheel forwards with a single kick as quickly and as hard as you can.
If the wheel stops as soon as you let go or after a very short distance, it's desperate to be fixed.
If the wheel rotates a 1/4 of a turn it's debatable.
If it's good it will rotate a whole turn or more (a whole turn is when the air valve ends up in the same place as when you started).
For example my brake will rotate 1.5 turns in the forwards direction but only 1/4 turn in the backwards direction.

Brake binding could decrease or increase as soon as the brake is used.
Spin the wheel forwards,
while it's spinning put the brake on as quickly as possible and just hard enough to stop the wheel instantly,
then let go of the brake as quickly as possible.
Then check for binding again. You may need to repeat using the brake a few times.

You may also want to see how much binding there is after a ride,
try to brake hard at least a few times during the ride, especially at the end.

Another test for a binding brake is to take the bike for a long run without using the brake at all,
then put your hand on the brake disc and see if it's cool, warm or hot (the hotter it is the worse the binding).

If the binding is bad in the forwards direction, it's an MOT failure (in the UK) and it can cause brake failure, warp the disc,
or at least slow the bike down and bad braking performance (due to overheating).

The reason brakes start binding is due to corrosion, over time it will increase (depends on amount of water / winter salt),
if it's ignored (not stripped down and cleaned by a mechanic before it gets to bad),
it can become so corroded it's impossible to repair and so has to be replaced (costs around £150 just for the part).
When it's that bad, I bet it's also an MOT failure (in the UK),
so you will have no choice but to fix it if you want to use the bike on the road.

There is a chance the brake is binding due to brake dust, dirt or corrosion between the brake pads and the brake disc.
Simply spay some brake cleaner on to a piece of standard disposable white kitchen towel
(it's paper based = slightly abrasive).
Rub both sides of the brake disc with it, when the towel becomes to black,
repeat the process with another towel with brake cleaner on etc.
Only use brake cleaner, it's available at car or motorcycle accessory shops.
Look for any white bits that have come off the kitchen towel and on to the disc,
wipe them off with the towel (downwards, not sideways).
For the first few times when using the brake (while riding), expect the brake performance to be bad.
Then retest for brake binding, cleaning like this may reduce or hide a more serious problem, but it is worth trying.

Otherwise fixing a binding brake does require skill and so I advise letting a mechanic work on it.
I highly recommend all the rubber floating calliper parts in the brake are changed
or are at least around since they can split or perish.
If you want to make sure you're not overcharged by a mechanic, agree an hourly labour rate and watch them work.
If they will not agree to let you watch them work or charge per 30mins, find another mechanic / shop.

There is also loads of extra and very useful information for a mechanic about this brake binding
(including quirks of the CG125 calliper and fixes).
See Floating Calliper Pin Faults and Brake Piston Faults sections below.

How to improve the Front Disc Brake

The original pads are Nissin Sintered NKX16FF and I think they perform terribly (I think they are unsafe),
I have explained in more detail later on in this section.
You can tell if you have Nissin pads by looking through the front wheel, Picture 1   Picture 2 of Nissin pads.

As a result I have replaced the Nissin pads with EBC SFA054 Organic pads.
They are completely the opposite of the Nissin pads,
they have more stopping power than I can use (I have tried emergency stops).
They have feel, progressiveness, smoothness, quiet, as well as not needing a lot of pressure to use them.
After running the pads in and using a braided brake hose, I can stop with one finger,
stop quickly with 2 fingers and very heavy braking needs 4 fingers.
I very highly recommend them (for your safety and enjoyment),
I have been told and read from several sources that EBC make the best Organic pads
and my results have been so good I believe them,
I have used other brands of organic pads in other bikes
and none of them were anywhere near the performance of the EBC organic pads.

A friend of mine has put the EBC Organic pads in his Honda CG125 and found they still work brilliantly,
even with a passenger on the back and down a steep hill (25 stone combined weight).
He also found they work brilliantly when it's heavily raining and the roads are soaking wet (they work immediately, no delay).

One mistake I did make when originally fitting the EBC SFA054 Organic pads
was to transfer the metal shim from the Nissin pads Picture
The brake piston pushes against the metal shim,
as you can see from the Picture it means the piston does not push evenly over the pad.
This resulted in the pad wearing unevenly, increasing brake binding and noise while decreasing power and feel.
Luckily I realised my mistake quickly and removed the metal shim.

I have tried the EBC FA054HH Sintered pads.
They require more pressure from your fingers compared to the EBC SFA054 organic pads.
I did not have enough pressure to brake as well as the EBC Organics.
Even though I had fitted a braided brake hose,
so I highly recommend you use the EBC SFA054 Organic pads instead in the Honda CG125.

After trying 2 makes of Sintered pads and speaking to some mechanics, I am getting very suspicious about Sintered pads.
The main reason motorcycle manufactures switched from organic to sintered
on road motorcycles was to improve wet performance.
Many organic pads are bad in the wet, but EBC Organic are very good.

Sintered are meant to have more friction and less brake fade.
EBC Organics are GG rated, the best Sintered are HH (including EBC Sintered),
that means there is not much between them.

So why have I had such bad results with Sintered,
one explanation could be Sintered needing to be warmed up before substantial friction is created.
In order to warm them up you may need to brake a lot before you need them and before they cool down again.
A 125cc bike is light and is at slow speeds compared to a big bike at 100 mph
(weight and speed affects brake temperature).
A big bike will also have a much more powerful braking system since it's designed for much higher speeds.

One mechanic told me on a big bike at 100mph, trying to stop with sintered,
friction was not brilliant, but as the heat builds up (as bike was slowing down) it gets better and better,
around 70 to 80mph the pads have fully warmed up and the friction is massive and the bike stops very quickly.

So it could well be a 125cc bike is so light and is at such slow speeds (60mph), that sintered will never get up to heat.
Resulting in much less friction than with the organics pads.
I cannot confirm this idea, since I have not tried EBC Organics and EBC Sintered on a race track on a big bike.

The next question is, on a big bike at 60mph, which stops the quickest, EBC Sintered or EBC Organic.
If I had to bet, I would guess the EBC Organic.

Sintered are supposed to last much longer than Organic,
that still seems to be true but EBC Organics claim to last much longer than normal Organics.

Sintered are meant to have little feel, are harsh and hard, ether they are off or substantially on
(EBC Sintered have reduced this problem).
Organics do not have this problem.

So whatever motorcycle you have, big or small, remember to change the brake pads to EBC.
And do not go straight to EBC Sintered thinking they will be better than EBC Organics.
If possible try them both, if you cannot afford to do so, I would guess EBC Organics for 70mph and below.

The next 3 paragraphs are about the Nissin pads and why I think they are so unsafe and a possible fix
(but still far better to use EBC Organics instead).
The Nissin pads do not seem to have much friction so do not slow the bike down much or well.
I have tried a braided brake hose which increased braking pressure.
Cleaned the disc with brake cleaner.
Brake calliper was stripped down / cleaned and all new rubber seals put in.
Brake fluid changed.
I tried a 2nd new identical set of Nissin pads (they were 4 years younger than the first set).
All this made no difference to the Nissin pads performance.

The only way to get the Nissin pads to work is to heat them up by braking a lot before you actually need them.
My biggest concern is when you need to brake heavily or in an emergency I found the pads friction disappears
(feels like the disc is as slippery as ice).
It's simple for you to see if you have the same problem, try braking hard (not massively) and see what happens,
of course leave lots of room to prevent accident.
Downhill, back wind or when carrying some weight will make the problem far worse as well as how fast you are going.
But the following information seems to fix all of the problems (but the EBC brake pads are still miles better),
I am not sure why but it could be it puts grit on the pads to create friction
or it corrodes up the brake so the pads are binding all the time (so generates heat).

The only thing I found to get the Nissin pads to work was,
in winter the roads had salt on and were soaking wet.
The brake hardly worked at all, with water and salt all over it,
so I had to put far more brake pressure on than normal and it took a very long distance to stop,
after a very few miles of this the brake doubled in power ever since.
I don't know if it was the salt water or excessive braking that did it.
The excessive braking over a long time
can only be done with the disc constantly being soaked with wet roads and rain so it takes a long time to stop.

When to change the Brake Pads

The pads should have a worn out indicator, but if you cannot see it,
the pads are worn out when there is very little brake pad material left (1mm).
You may wish to change the pads at 2mm,
since braking performance maybe reducing (pad manufactures often recommend replace when half worn).
You can use a feeler gauge to help measure,
available from most car shops and used for other jobs like valve clearances Picture
Use a torch to see both brake pads (one pad on each side of the disc),
often the hard to see pad can wear down faster than the other one.
If you ever hear or feel what seems like metal grinding against metal,
your pads are worn out and must be changed immediately or you will damage the disc.

I very highly recommend the EBC SFA054 Organic brake pads; see How to improve the Front Disc Brake section above.
Other Manufacturers part numbers are GOLDfren 144, Dunlopad DP107, Ferodo FDB250, SBS 536, Vesrah VD120.
The part numbers do not include the pad material type or what they are designed for,
you want one designed for road or race use, not off road.

How to change the Brake Pads

When the brake pads wear out, changing them is very simple and quick if the brake is not corroded inside,
heavy corrosion will make brake bind excessively (see Check brake is not Binding section).

If the brake is corroded inside my recommendation is to see a mechanic,
also let them change the pads since they have to take the old pads out anyway.
Actually my recommendation is to get a mechanic to change the pads for you regardless of if it's corroded or not,
shop around, £5 to £15 is about right if not corroded (it's only a very few minutes work).
I have explained most of the important things in the sections below to help you or a mechanic.

To change the pads,
you should not need to mess around with the brake fluid reservoir on the handlebars unless it has been over filled
(just in case put cloth around it).
What can happen is if it's over full, when the brake piston is pushed back (when installing new pads),
the fluid is pushed back in to the reservoir and could overspill.
If the reservoir has been over filled, do not drain all the brake fluid out,
you must keep fluid in the bottom of the reservoir and in the pipe
else you will get air in to the system that will probably be very hard to get out.
Do not drain the brake fluid out of the bleed screw unless you know what you are doing (may get air in to the system),
remove brake fluid from the reservoir on the handlebar instead.
Brake fluid will severely damage paint,
cover up any paint that may come in to contact with it due to spillage or accidental splashing,
if brake fluid gets on to paint, wash it off immediately with loads of water.

Slacken the 2 brake pad pins Picture
The brake pad pins could be so tight you may have to remove the front wheel
to get enough leverage on them and or use a longer 5 mm Allen key.

Ether remove the front wheel.
Or remove the brake calliper (that's what the brake pads are inside,
2 bolts going in to the fork leg, not the ones behind the rubber bungs) from the bike.
Do not remove or drain the brake pipe going from the handlebars to the brake calliper,
you can put a bucket underneath (upside down) to rest the brake calliper on.

Remove the 2 brake pad pins; you can then remove the brake pads.

Do not transfer the metal shim if fitted to the old pads,
there is a paragraph about it in the How to improve the Front Disc Brake section above.

You have to push the brake piston back since new pads will be thicker
(you may want to clean the part of the piston that is exposed with some brake fluid).
The brake piston should push back easily with just your two thumbs;
if it will not you have a corrosion problem (see Brake Piston Faults section below).
The brake piston cannot be pushed back at an angle;
it has to be pushed back evenly on both sides (one thumb on the left, the other on the right side).

You should clean the brake disc with some brake cleaner before fitting new pads (to stop them being contaminated).
The brake pad pins will also probably be corroded so need to be cleaned (sand paper / emery paper)
and a very thin layer of copper grease put on (to protect).
There is a metal plate that acts like a spring for the pads,
this may have become corroded and needs to be removed and cleaned Picture
If you remove the brake from the bike (from the fork),
do not over tighten the 2 bolts when you put it back on the fork (remember how easy it was to un tighten)

You will probably find that the brake lever has no resistance in it and the brake does not work.
That's because the brake piston has been pushed back (even slightly due to removing it from the brake disc).
All you have to do is pull the brake lever in as far as it will go and release it several times,
this will push the brake piston out slightly every time.
(If you had to drain any brake fluid when you pushed the brake piston back,
be careful since as the brake piston moves out the fluid level will drop,
you must keep fluid in the bottom of the reservoir and in the pipe
else you will get air in to the system that will probably be very hard to get out).

When the brake piston is far enough out, you will feel resistance in the brake lever and will find the brake works.

Try to rotate the front wheel,
if you find the brake is binding excessively (Check brake is not Binding), you have a corrosion problem,
I would not ride the bike like it, I would get a mechanic to fix it
(below is how to fix it, there is a chance putting the old brake pads back in would sort it).

Ask the mechanic to check both floating Calliper Pins (6 mm, behind rubber bungs on outside of calliper)
first and see if it fixes the fault,
see Floating Calliper Pin Faults section below for more information about the Calliper Pins.

If that fails to fix the fault, it must be the brake piston seals (see Brake Piston Faults section below).

Brake Piston Faults

This section is only for enthusiasts, experienced people or mechanics.

Unlike the Floating Calliper pins, the brake piston on the Honda CG125 is normal (does not have any quirks).
Except for needing a vacuum bleeder or bleeding it through your fingers to get the brake fluid back in
(far more detail later on in this section).

A binding brake can be a fault of ether the brake piston or the Floating Calliper pins.
The chances are it's the Floating Calliper pins, see Floating Calliper Pin Faults section below.
But the brake piston will create brake binding when corrosion gets to bad.

There is a very simple, quick and easy test to see if the brake piston is ok.
If you can push the brake piston back with your hands (one thumb on each side),
it's ok (as long as brake fluid is not escaping).
You cannot push the piston back unevenly; it will only go back straight.
If a spacer or washer has been put between the brake lever and the reservoir it may stop you pushing it back by hand.
The only other reason it will not go back is due to corrosion (or seals have perished / swelled).

The first thing to try is to clean the exposed part of the piston with some brake fluid (not brake cleaner it will swell the rubber).
Push the brake piston out a bit (not by a massive amount) by pumping the brake lever a few times,
then use brake fluid on a cloth to clean it.
Then see if it pushes back by hand, otherwise you are going to have to remove the piston, see below.

When you remove the brake piston, you will lose all the brake fluid.
The bad brake design means it's very hard to get brake fluid back in without a vacuum bleeder.
I did not have a vacuum bleeder so had to bleed the brake pipe between my fingers (with gloves on),
then push it in to calliper before reservoir ran out of brake fluid (not easy).
Only then did I have enough brake pressure in the system to bleed the rest of the air out the air bleed screw hole
(that's not normal, it's a bad brake design).

If the mechanic has to clean or replace the brake piston seals / clean the metal behind them,
all the brake fluid will be lost from the system,
this is the perfect time to replace the original rubber brake hose with a braided hose.
Rubber hoses only last a few years, braided hoses last forever.
A braided hose gives you more power (pressure) and feel of the brake.

The easiest way to remove the brake piston is when the brake pads are removed,
put a little pressure with your fingers on the brake piston (pushing it back in to the calliper),
while operating the brake lever fully many, many times (the piston will move out very slightly every time the lever is pulled in).
You will have to top up the brake fluid reservoir from time to time else you will run out of fluid to pump.

Like all brake pistons, it is very delicate and should not be pulled out of the calliper (unless you can with your fingers).
The method in the section above will push the piston out of the calliper without needing to be pulled.

If you damage the brake piston you could easily end up with a brake fluid leak
(brake will not work and new piston is around £30).
If you damage the brake calliper metal behind the seals you can also easily have a fluid leak
(brake will not work and new calliper is around £150).
Since both are very delicate, unless you are sensitive or skilled,
it could be better and cheaper to get a mechanic to work on them.

You may be able to temporarily bodge a piston seal problem
by cleaning the outside of the seals with brake fluid when the piston is out.
But the main corrosion problem is likely to be the metal behind the seals needing to be cleaned.
If you remove the piston seals and they are heavily worn / corrosion behind them,
they may not go back in (unless you fit new seals and remove the corrosion).

The brake piston has 2 seals.
The one nearest the outside is the dust seal, is meant to have some silicone grease put on it.
The other seal and the piston itself is meant to be coated in brake fluid.
But I am currently using red grease (Fuchs lubrications uk, Renolit red rubber grease G51) on both seals and on both sides,
it is designed for the job and probably makes the piston slide better (see Red Grease).

Brake pistons also corrode,
you can clean them but eventually they will be so rough they will wear out the rubber seals very quickly.
The problem is increased when new brake pads are fitted,
since piston is pushed back further due to the new pads being thicker.
Seals also wear out and age,
they can also swell when exposed to chemicals like brake cleaner (so be careful what you expose them to).

When the brake piston is out, you can easily unscrew the brake cable from the calliper and then take the calliper to a mechanic.
Then let the mechanic do all the delicate / sensitive work.
Without the bike,
the mechanic will probably not be able to remove the calliper pins unless you have slackened them off on the bike.
The calliper pins are often so tight; you will probably need an extra-long 6 mm Allen key (may need a tap from a hammer).
The mechanic may struggle or not be able to remove the brake pad pins unless you slackened them off on the bike as well.

See How to improve the Front Disc Brake section above for my recommendations on what Brake Pads to use and not use.

Floating Calliper Pin Faults

This section can be done by many people, but not all, it is a little fiddly and a bit of skill is needed.
It has loads of advice that a mechanic should find useful and other people.
As a result I have written it for experienced people and mechanics.

I highly recommend you do not drain the brake hose;
it's a right pain to get the air out and the fluid back in, see Brake Piston Faults

The floating calliper pins (behind the rubber bungs) and holes are very badly designed.
It looks to me like Honda had to bodge the design due to tolerance problems with the calliper or the fork legs,
to square the brake pads up to the brake disc.

The top pin has no rubber O ring (even though it has a grove for one) and there is not enough room to fit one.
This results in corrosion getting in.
The bottom pin does have an O ring so corrosion does not get in.

The other purpose of the O ring is to create resistance when the calliper pin slides.
The top pin slides excessively due to no O ring, but the bottom one does not due to the O ring.
This results in the calliper pivoting around the O ring, excessively wearing the O ring.
This pivoting also means if the O ring is to worn or the grease used is too slippery,
when the brake is applied, the calliper will float and pivot excessively with hardly any braking occurring.
This problem can easily be diagnosed by looking at the calliper moving when the brake is applied (if it's excessive it's wrong).

The pivoting is what helps the brake pads square up to the brake disc
(many other brakes have better tolerances so do not need to pivot).
The pivoting may well be responsible
for why there is more brake binding when the wheel travels in reverse compared to forwards.

I very highly recommend you replace the O ring with a new one,
every time you work on the calliper pins due to the excessive wearing problem (even after a very few thousand miles).

I also highly recommend you have 2 new rubber boots ready (in case) for the calliper pins,
since the old ones can very easily split, crack or stretch when you remove or install the pins (even when only a few months old).
The boots also have a habit of popping out of the calliper (the grove),
or a bit of them popping out when installing the pins (keep a close eye on them, just wiggle them back in to the grove).

The calliper pins and holes should be cleaned and the correct grease put on the pins and the outside of the O ring.
Silicone grease is meant to be used, but I found the brake was still binding far too much.

Copper grease worked fine for a few months,
but then chemically reacted with one of the rubber boots so badly;
the calliper completely stopped floating (excessive brake binding).
The other rubber boot was fine since it was from a different batch, but copper grease is not designed to be used near rubber.

Silkolene PRO RG2, see Red Grease section below, has given by far the best results.

Update Silkolene PRO RG2 was used with new rubber boots and O ring and all exposed metal polished and cleaned.
Only a thin amount of PRO RG2 grease was applied and only to the calliper pins and outside of the O ring.
This failed spectacularly after only a very few miles and months.
Moisture got in and the calliper created black aluminium oxide (rust)
which turned the grease in to friction similar to dry rubber.
Which stopped the calliper floating,
I only realised this when I put new brake pads in since I suddenly got massive brake binding.
This was not the fault of the grease,
it is the poor metal quality of the calliper and maybe the rubber boots did not seal well enough.
I am now testing Fuchs lubrications uk, Renolit red rubber grease G51 (see Red Grease section below) again.
But this time I have put the grease on the inside, outside and ends of the rubber boots.
I also put as much grease on the calliper pins + outside of the O ring as possible and pushed them in to calliper.
I then removed them and put even more grease on them and put them back in the calliper.
I also put the grease on both rubber bungs inside and out to try and stop moisture getting in.
I did not get any excessive floating from the calliper this time with this grease (see Red Grease section below).
Only time will tell if this idea works + another winter.

The calliper pins each have a metal washer between them and the metal plate of the calliper.
When you remove the pins the metal washer will fall out,
put it back on the end of the calliper pin when you wish to put the calliper pin back in to the metal plate.

The calliper pins are often so tight; you will probably need an extra-long 6 mm Allen key (may need a tap from a hammer).
It's often impossible to get enough pressure on them unless the calliper is still attached to the bike.

If after all that the calliper is excessively floating / pivoting resulting in hardly any braking pressure.
You can try a thicker or less slippery grease (not sure what to recommend).
As an absolute last resort you can put a washer (spacer) between the brake lever and the brake fluid reservoir.
You will have to remove the brake lever and find a washer of the correct thickness.
If it is too thick it will result in excessive brake binding.
You must make sure it's fitted squarely so it does not touch (damage) the rubber.
You will also probably find when using a washer that the brake piston will no longer push back by hand (thumbs).

Red Grease

Many types of grease are not designed to be used with rubber, so unless they say they are, avoid them.
They should say can be used on rubber or they may say can be used on seals.
You also need the grease to be suitable for high temperatures (brakes get very hot)
and water repellent (they get a lot of road spray).

If a grease is red coloured, this should mean it is suitable to be used on rubber and can be used for the brakes.
That's what the red colour is meant to mean, but I cannot guarantee every manufacturer will stick to that.

Silkolene PRO RG2 is suitable, if not in stock ask your dealer to order it or buy it on the internet.
The grease can also be used on many other items, including the bikes rear swing arm.
But it's not designed to be soaking in brake fluid,
Silkolene UK said it's ok on the brake piston seals, but not on the brake master cylinder on the handlebars.

Fuchs lubrications uk, Renolit red rubber grease G51,
your Silkolene dealer may be able to order it or you can buy it on the internet.
It's designed to be used with brake fluid.
It can be used for many other jobs; I use it on the bikes rear swing arm and brake piston seals with very good results.
But when I put it on the Honda CG125 Brakes Floating Calliper pins, it made it to slippery (excessive floating),
there is a chance it was my fault since I did not change the O ring at the time,
but for now I am using Silkolene PRO RG2 on the pins.
On a different model, make or design of brake you probably will find no excessive floating and find the grease is really good.

Front Disc Brake fluid level


Check the fluid level in the sight glass on the side of the reservoir (next to the brake lever).
Move the handle bars from fully left to right to see the fluid appear and disappear.
When the handle bars are straight see how far up the sight glass the fluid reaches,
note the Lower mark near the bottom right of the sight glass and never let the fluid level drop below this mark.
As the brake pads wear down the fluid level will drop.

Front Disc Brake fluid changing

I advise you to change the fluid if it's a new bike before the 2 year schedule,
I changed it 2 months early and noticed a substantial improvement in power and feel.
There are several different ways to change the fluid,
you can buy a one way valve brake bleeding system for less than £10 and instructions are included.
It's pretty easy and I recommend you try it, just remember brake fluid eats paint so cover it up.

The smallest bottle (250ml) of DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid is needed.
Brake fluid goes stale over time once the bottle has been opened so do not buy a larger bottle than required.
A 250ml bottle has far more brake fluid than you need anyway.

Any brake bleeding device will come with plastic tubing to connect to the brake, if you do not buy anything,
you will need transparent clear plastic tubing with an internal diameter of 5mm,
available from car shops and maybe DIY and fish tank shops.

The instructions below are how I replaced the brake fluid;
it's a combination of the one way valve system and the non one way valve system.
The instructions might make it look hard and complicated, but it really is very easy, lots of the instructions are not needed,
there just in case something goes wrong (unlikely).

I used the metal one way valve (look for the arrow on it, for the direction of flow)
with transparent clear plastic tubing on each end (small tube = brake end).
The plastic tubing was very determined to stay in its coiled up state, you need someone to help you keep it straight,
or you could trap it (I put it through a large funnel which I trapped in the handle of a large bucket).

1. Remove the small black rubber cap (see picture above)
on the brake bleed nipple (disc end of brake) and attach the small tube.

2. Unscrew and remove the brake fluid reservoir lid (on the handlebars),
there's a second lid inside that you need to pull out.

3. Pull the brake lever in slowly (as far as you can without excessive force) and slowly release,
repeat this 3 or 4 times to get the pressure up,
then pull it in again slowly and hold while very slowly opening the brake bleed nipple nut
(the pressure on the brake lever will reduce, keep pressure on lever, when lever hits handle bars, keep it there),
as soon as fluid flows easily in to the transparent pipe, stop opening the nut.
When the fluid stops moving, close the nut and only then release the brake lever slowly.

4. Repeat step 3 until brake fluid has gone through the one way valve.

5. You can now leave the nut open and slowly pull the brake lever in and slowly release over and over
until nearly all the fluid is out of the reservoir,
do not let air get in to the small pipes in the bottom of the reservoir or you will get air in to the system.

6. Make sure you have covered everything around the reservoir since you may spill the brake fluid,
which eats paint, even a single drop.
Pour new brake fluid in to the reservoir (must be an unopened bottle, it goes off as soon as it's opened).
Keep repeating step 5 and put new brake fluid in when needed,
when the colour of the fluid in the transparent tube changes,
you have replaced all the old fluid in the brake system, if you do not notice the colour change,
you must have changed all the fluid when most of the small bottle is used.

7. If the brake lever loses all or some of its pressure, you have let air in to the system, repeat step 3 to get it out.

8. The fluid in the transparent tubing before the one way valve should not have any bubbles or foaming in it,
if it does you need to get them out,
you can try step 3 again, you may also need to experiment with the bleed nut (try opening it less or more),
you may also have to try closing the brake bleed nut before the brake lever touches the handle bars.

9. When finished, make sure brake bleed nut is closed tight and top up the reservoir (never let it drop below the Lower mark).

10. Put reservoir lid back on and then the outside lid, you do not need to tighten screws very hard since it's all rubber,
remember how easy it was to unscrew.

11. Any brake fluid that has been spilt needs to be diluted with loads of water to stop it eating things,
it's normal for some brake fluid to have escaped around the brake bleed nut.

12. If you have trapped air in the brake system (unlikely), the brake will have a lack of pressure and feel spongy.
If step 8 does not fix this problem, the air is trapped higher up the system,
you need to make sure the brake bleed nut is closed tight,
then slowly pull the brake lever in until it touches the handle bar, then tie the lever to the handle bar while it's still touching,
leave it like that overnight.
Then open the bleed nut slowly and hopefully the air will come out. If this still does not totally work, try again,
the reservoir lid might need to stay off overnight.

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