Motorcycle Owners Club

Honda CG125 but also some universal motorcycle information

Honda CG125 Basic Fault Finding

If your motorcycle has been involved in an accident, please see Bike Damage after an Accident page.

The basic fault finding below will fix almost all the common faults your likely to get with the bike.
Just like the Servicing, it's very easy for anyone without any skills to do and it's much cheaper than a mechanic.

A worn out Battery is the most common fault, it's also one of the easiest faults to find and fix
(see Battery section below in Electrical Faults).

Basics

Mechanical faults often affect the fuel to air mixture entering the combustion chamber (engine).
If the air is restricted you will get a rich mixture,
if the petrol is restricted you will get a lean mixture,
if you get a hole (could look like a crack or slit)
in a pipe or rubber which results in air from outside being sucked in you will also get a lean mixture.
If the mixture is to rich or lean it will ether result in bad engine performance (and other side effects)
or if really bad it will stop the engine from working.

A spark plug colour chart will show you how the engine has been running, normal, rich, lean or other problems.
Look at the Normal, Overheated and Carbon Fouled pictures in the link below.
http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm
For more Spark Plug information, see Spark Plug section below.

An explanation of how carburettors (carbs) work and how they change the mixture at different throttle positions
can be found in this link http://hondanighthawks.net/carb14.htm

A Colortune is a very useful device that lets you see inside the combustion chamber (engine)
and see the colour of the flame (rich / lean / normal mixture), please see my Colortune Review

If the bike has been stored for a long time see Get bike working after storing for months in Servicing page.

Petrol

See Ethanol in Petrol Warning
Also see Petrol

Petrol ages, if it's old petrol it can cause trouble, there are also bad batches from time to time,
try to dilute it with fresh petrol or drain and replace it.

Some petrol brands and versions have more inbuilt cleaners in than others.
Shell V Power, BP Ultimate, Tesco 99 are more expensive than normal Unleaded Petrol, but they have extra cleaners in them.
If the engine is able to work, using petrol with extra cleaners in over time may slowly clean the carburettor and engine.

Over a long time a petrol tank can build up rust, sludge and dirt inside. This normally settles in the bottom of the tank.
The petrol tap is fed by 2 pipes from the tank;
reserve petrol tap position is a shorter pipe and so feeds from petrol lower down the tank.
So if reserve petrol tap position does not work try the main petrol tap position.

Only do all of the following in the Petrol section below if you're sure the fault is nothing else in this page.
If the bike falls over or if the petrol tank is shaken excessively the rust,
sludge or dirt could float up and then block the main or reserve pipes.

The petrol tap has filters that can become blocked with rust, sludge or dirt that must be cleaned (only if they become blocked).
Switch petrol tap off.
Unscrew the bottom of the petrol tap and remove the filter.
Clean the filter in petrol, if there are any holes in the filter replace it.

If that fails to work you will need to drain the petrol tank.
To drain the tank remove the rubber petrol pipe, switch the petrol tap to reserve position and let it drain in to a container.
When the petrol has drained out,
get rid of the old petrol since it will be contaminated from the contents of the petrol tank (it cannot be flushed down a toilet).

Remove the petrol tap from the petrol tank by removing the nut between the tap and the tank.
Inspect both petrol tap pipes and clean thoroughly in petrol
(there probably are filters on the end of each pipe that need cleaning).

You then need to clean the inside of the petrol tank, petrol is a good cleaner.
It's probably best to remove the petrol tank,
remove the left hand side panel of the bike,
unclip the right hand side panel where it clips in to the petrol tank (some bikes do not clip in to the petrol tank),
unclip the petrol tank electrical connection (only bikes equipped with a fuel gauge have an electrical connection)
and un hook the electrical wire from the bikes metal frame,
remove the seat (see Remove Seat part in How to find your bikes Tool Kit and Owners Manual section of the Servicing page),
remove the bolt holding the tank, then remove the tank by pulling it towards the rear of the bike and up.

If all of the above fails to fix the fault, the carburettor will need to be cleaned,
search the internet or get a Haynes Honda CG125 manual to find out how to clean it.
A universal motorcycle carburettor cleaning guide will do, you do not need Honda CG125 carburettor cleaning instructions.
On the internet enter motorcycle carburettor cleaning in to your favourite search engine.
Cleaning a carburettor is not an extremely difficult job but you have to be careful,
if in doubt find someone who has done it before or ask a mechanic to do it.

If you need to take the carb (carburettor) off,
do not undo the nuts that hold the carb to the intake manifold rubber,
since the carb if over tightened can change shape and will not make a good seal, so will cause a week mixture.
Also as you push the carb back you have to use a great deal of force against the air box rubber
which will damaged / split it which will cause a week mixture.
The way to take the carb off is to undo the manifold bolts (8mm bolts)
on the cylinder head and then the carb comes out / back easily (engine must be cold when this is done).

Oil

Check the oil level (see Engine Oil page), if it's burning oil the level will drop, you need to see a mechanic if it's substantial.
Make sure you change the oil at the correct mileage or before (see Engine Oil page).

Spark Plug

Check the spark plug (see Spark Plug page),
look at the colour, this tells you how the engine is running, see Basics section above for a link to a colour chart.
If it's running rich (black sooty deposits = Carbon Fouled) clean the air filter.
If it's running lean check the Exhaust and Silencer (see Exhaust and Silencer section below),
it could also be a fuel starvation (blocked) fault in the Petrol line or carburettor.
When choke is on the mixture will be rich.

It's always a good idea to change the spark plug and see if it fixes the fault.

Air filter

Clean it (see Air Filter in Servicing page), it's always a good idea to clean the filter and see if it fixes the fault,
this would cause the engine to run rich.
If there are holes in the air filter or if the engine is run without an air filter, the engine would run lean or not at all.
It's very bad for the engine to run without filtered air.
See Basics section above for more information and links about rich or lean running.

Exhaust and Silencer

If the Exhaust or Silencer has rusted all the way through it will make the engine run lean or rich (probably lean).
You must replace it, be careful with non-Honda parts unless it says it will not change the mixture of the engine (rich / lean).
If you fit a non Honda part you may have to alter parts inside the carb to get the mixture correct at all throttle positions.
Make sure any parts are designed for your version of Honda CG125.

See Basics section above for more information and links about rich / lean running and the carb.

Clutch or Gearbox

Clutch or Gearbox faults can often be due to Clutch free play, Chain Tension, Chain Oiling or Idle Speed
(check all of these in the Servicing page).

If the clutch has done a very high mileage or has been severely mistreated over its life and so needs to be replaced,
I very highly recommend you put the EBC brand of clutch plates and clutch springs in (see Clutch in General page).

Clutch Cable

Clutch cables break on any motorcycle, often without warning and with no way of predicting it,
see Clutch cable page on how to service and replace it.

Valve Clearance

Check the valve clearance (see Valve Clearance page).
If the valve clearance is wrong, some of the problems are, engine performance / power may reduce,
it can make the engine run rich or lean, reduce engine compression,
make it hard to start or if it's very wrong valve or engine damage may occur.

If the valve clearance is too big, you may hear excessive noise from the valves.
If the valve clearance is too small, you may hear no noise from one of the valves; this is very bad for the engine.
The noise test should not be relied on; you should only rely on the Valve Clearance page.

Ignition Timing

If you have a Honda CG125 before 1995 (before S & T models) it could still have the old Points system.
See Ignition Timing in the Servicing page.
Just like the Valve Clearance, the Points need to be checked and adjusted.
The Points affect the timing of when the spark plug fires. It also varies the timing dependant on engine revs.
If the timing is wrong the power will reduce from the engine.

Front Disc Brake

If the brake loses pressure or becomes spongy, check fluid level,
see Front Disc Brake fluid level in Brakes page (also part 12 of Front Disc Brake fluid changing)
Brake fluid will become spongy over time, replace it at least every 2 years,
see Front Disc Brake fluid changing in Brakes page.

If you hear metal grinding against metal when you use the brake see How to change the Brake Pads

If the brake is binding, see Check brake is not Binding to see if it's bad enough and what you can do about it.

Air Suction Valve

It's a Secondary Air Induction (SAI) valve system, not an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve system.

The Air Suction Valve is only fitted in countries that require it to reduce emissions,
the UK and most of Europe did when the front brake went from Drum to Disc.
The Air suction valve is on the left hand side of the bike just under the petrol tank. Picture (ignore white arrow)
It has 3 pipes going in to it
the metal pipe connects it to the engine valve cover (on top of the engine)
another pipe connects it to the air filter
and another pipe connects to the metal pipe between the carburettor and the engine.

Air is sucked from the Air Filter in to the Exhaust valve which is on top of the engine;
this enables the excess fuel in the exhaust gas to be burned in the exhaust.

The Air Suction Valve is actually 2 valves; both valves need to be open for air to flow from air filter to exhaust port.
One opens when there is negative pressure on the exhaust valve
(that's when fumes are sent out of the engine in to the exhaust).

The other valve is open all the time except when there is negative or low pressure
in the pipe connecting the carburettor to the engine.
Negative pressure is generated when closing the throttle and decelerating, the valve must close to prevent after burning.
Low pressure for example is generated at high engine revs;
the valve must close to prevent a loss in performance due to Exhaust Gas Recirculation.
I'm guessing a fault creating Exhaust Gas Recirculation does not sound good
if the exhaust gas ends up in parts not designed for the heat or fumes (air suction valve, air filter etc.).

It looks like you disable the Air Suction Valve by disconnecting the pipe going to the valve cover (on top of the engine).
You then bung up the pipe and tie it tight to stop air flowing through the pipe.
The UK MOT still may not check the exhaust emissions of motorcycles (check first), cars have been checked for many years.
I'm not sure, but it's probable that disabling the valve will not improve engine performance unless the valve is faulty,
people who guess it would may be thinking of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve system
which always reduces engine performance.

Someone told me their Air Suction Valve stuck open,
the bike juddered at around 5500 rpm and could not get past 6000 rpm in any gear, see MPH to RPM page.

If you disable the Air Suction Valve I am not sure if it would change the air mixture (lean or rich),
it might at all or some throttle positions?
It could well be that it does not since you have to disable the valve (close it) when you do an emissions check.
You can find out by checking the spark plug colour,
see Basics section above for more information and links about rich / lean running and the carb.

Serious mechanical engine fault (not easy to do, only for mechanical enthusiasts)

In the unlikely event that your engine has developed a serious fault that cannot be easily or cheaply fixed,
a common solution among Honda CG125 owner's
is to simply buy a 2nd hand Honda CG125 engine from a scrap / salvage yard or from ebay.

The idea seems very easy for anyone without any skills to do, unbolt old engine and disconnect it from everything,
then put 2nd hand engine in and connect everything to it.
That would work if it's the same exact version of Honda CG125 engine, but often things slightly change over the years.
You also need to be happy buying a 2nd hand engine and trust that it's ok.

The engine is affected by the carburettor, exhaust / silencer and air filter.
Examples,
if the air filter is changed for one that has more resistance the engine will run rich (less resistance = lean),
if the exhaust / silencer is changed for one that has more or less resistance it will run rich or lean.

The carburettor is what can change the engine from running rich or lean (it's actually called the fuel to air mixture).
The carburettor has to change the settings at different throttle positions
(you need to check the fuel to air mixture is correct at all positions).
See Basics section above for more information and links about rich / lean running and the carburettor.

If you put an engine with an Air Suction Valve in to a bike that does not support it or the other way round
(bike is designed for an Air Suction Valve, engine is not),
you might be wondering what to do with all the pipes and connections.
Have a look at the Air Suction Valve section above to find out what it does and how to disable it.
I would seal off any pipes and connections they connect to.

If you have bought a 2nd hand Honda CG125
and need to work out if the engine has been changed for a different model version,
check the serial number against one of the websites in Spare Parts section in the Links page.

Light Bulbs

If a light bulb fails, you must fix it as soon as possible, you would fail a police check and a MOT in the UK.
Never ride in the dark without a working headlight.

If the bike is very old the bulbs will be 6 V (volts), if it's a modern bike it will be 12 V (volts),
the bulb and battery will be marked with 6 V or 12 V.
If you accidentally put a 6 V bulb in to a 12 V bike the bulb will probably just burn out immediately
(bright flash of light then it never works again).
If you accidentally put a 12 V bulb in to a 6 V bike the light output will be half what it should be.

Headlight, if the low beam fails, use the high beam instead,
you can point the headlight down to stop it blinding other vehicles.
Legally you must still replace the bulb as soon as possible (see How to replace the Headlight Bulb in the Servicing page).

Rear Brake light,
if it does not come on when the rear brake is applied,
there's an adjustment wire,
it's vertically mounted and has a spring connecting it to the pedal.

Push the brake pedal down and up to find it (the cable and spring will be moving);
there's an adjustment screw in the middle of it.

The indicator bulbs (probably 16w) and the rear light / brake bulb are probably standard bulbs that all cars and bikes use.
Rear light and brake light are probably combined in to a single dual filament bulb,
one filament for rear light (5w) the other for brake light (21w).

Left and Right Turn Indicators, there's a fuse (see Fuses section below) and a small box that makes the indicators flash.
Low battery voltage can make the flasher malfunction so check the battery first,
see Battery section below. If it's a low voltage fault it should recover with full voltage.
The indicator relay / flasher box could be around the battery,
under the seat or be the black box where the Idle Speed Screw is (see Idle Screws page), don't touch the idle speed screw.
The box will be a standard indicator relay / flasher unit,
you could probably buy a universal one, maybe even a car one
(if you have a 12 volt system, look at battery to find out).
But I would see how much a genuine Honda one is.
Indicator relay / flasher devices have 2 or 3 electrical connectors;
try to buy one that's as similar as possible to your original one.

Fuses, Connectors, Wires

Check the fuses, they are around the battery (behind the bikes left hand side panel),
see if any are blown and there should be spares with them.
Front Disc Brake model has
20A Fuse; this powers the engines electric starter motor and is also the master fuse.
5A Fuse, this powers the left and right turn indicators.
15A Fuse, this powers everything else including the electric starter motor button.

If moisture gets in to any electrical connections or wires (usually were the connectors touch the wire) in the bike,
they can corrode (rust), this increases the resistance for electricity (drops the voltage) and can even break the connection.
If you have this problem, you need to find it,
check any connections you can find and also look at the wire where it connects to the connector.

If you know how to solder, cutting off the connector and any corroded wire
then soldering instead is much better, since solder seals the join from moisture and dirt.
Of course if you are bad at soldering, you can create what's known as a dry joint,
this will corrode internally and break the connection.

For people who do not know how to solder, you can do the following.

If the fault is with the wire, you will have to cut off the connector,
then cut off all the corroded part of the wire (usually that's only the bit without plastic around it),
then take a bit of the plastic off the wire, then try to reuse the connector or buy a new one.

If the fault is a corroded connector, you can use a normal can of WD40
(available at most motor shops, DIY and even supermarkets).
But only use WD40 if the connector is corroded, WD40 cleans,
removes water and eats corrosion (over time), but leaves a deposit that attracts dirt.
This deposit may help the connection to begin with, but later dirt could break the connection,
you can then put more WD40 on and if the corrosion is gone, wipe off the WD40 as much as possible.

On old bikes the electrical wires can become stiff and brittle.
There are several electrical wires that go to the headlight and the front indicators.
Every time you turn the handlebars
these wires are stretched and bent around the part of the bikes metal frame (chassis) that the handlebars attach to.
Eventually these wires can break and even short out, blowing the fuse.
The battery's - (negative = maybe brown or black wire) connector is wired to the bikes metal frame,
the headlight and front indicator wires are likely to have worn the paint off the bikes metal frame
and so any + (positive) wires can short out if their insulation is worn away
and they touch any unpainted part of the bikes metal frame.

Some electrical devices on the bike do not have a - (negative wire)
instead they connect to the bikes metal frame to get the - voltage.
When corrosion / rust builds up between them it can reduce the voltage or even break the connection.

Battery

Low battery voltage affects all the electrics, including the spark plug.
To test for low voltage, switch the ignition key on, while the engine is off try the horn,
if the tone is much lower than normal, you have low voltage.
You can also do this test with the lights, if they are dimmer than usual with the engine off, you have low voltage.
Of course a standard cheap voltage meter (multimeter) is far easier to use and far more accurate.

If the engine will not start due to low battery voltage and you need it started soon,
try switching off the ignition for a minute or two.
If that fails to work you could try bump starting the motorcycle (may or may not work).
I have never bump started (push started) a motorcycle but I believe the technique is the same for all bikes.
Sit on the bike (I do not recommend you try this off the bike, you could drop it),
switch the ignition on, put the bike in to 2nd gear and keep the clutch pulled in,
then move the bike forwards with your feet as fast as possible,
the faster the bike is moving the more likely the engine will start and stay running so try to go downhill
or ideally get a person to push the middle of your back at least at jogging or ideally running speed,
then let the clutch out smoothly and quickly, when the engine starts pull in the clutch.
If that fails to work you may have to open the throttle a bit just before or when you release the clutch,
if that fails you may have to try the bike in 3rd gear.
To get the bike in to 3rd gear you may need the bike to be moving at the time.
Someone made a video of them bump starting a Honda CG125
(looks like an electric start only version with low battery voltage) Push Start Honda CG125 Video
A more detailed video of how to bump start a different bike Motorcycle Bump Start Video

An electric start Honda CG125 needs a massive amount of power (voltage and current)
to start the engine (battery needs to be healthy and fully charged or nearly fully charged).
A failing battery might seem to have enough voltage but when the electric start is used
the voltage can drop significantly resulting in the engine not firing up.
The electric start may turn the engine over (might be slower than normal),
but then the battery may not have enough voltage left to ignite the petrol at the same time.
It may not even have enough voltage to turn the engine over and you only hear a click instead.
If you have a kick-start as well, try it since it needs far less power than an electric start.
As soon as you take your finger off the electric start button the battery may return to a good voltage.
The Front Disc brake Honda CG125 automatically cuts off the front headlight briefly
when the electric start is used (this is a deliberate design feature and not a fault).
Some Honda CG125 electric starter motors have failed
(they just go click and do not turn the engine over even though the battery is fine),
I believe they fail due to black dust building up inside,
all you have to do is remove the starter motor and clean its insides.
The starter motor is the round cylinder underneath the choke lever, someone made a video Part 1  Part 2  Part 3
Some people have got the starter motor going by hitting it with a hammer instead.
There is also the possibility that the engine just needs to turn over once or twice
(with ignition off, put the bike in to 2nd gear and turn the back wheel by hand in the forwards direction, not reverse).

There are several reasons for low battery voltage.
1. It's simply worn out, this is by far the most likely.
2. If it's a maintenance battery, see Battery in the Servicing page.
3. You have left it for months and so it has gone flat (all bike batteries loose charge over time so charge it).
4. You have been doing loads of very short journeys and it has not been able to recharge enough
    (not so likely if you use a kick-start).
5. The engines battery charger has stopped working or the fuse / wire connecting it to the battery has failed.
6. You have an alarm fitted and it has drained the battery.
7. You have left the lights on (if your model has that ability).

Testing the motorcycles battery charger is probably easiest by simply replacing the battery,
if the new battery suffers low voltage with use, it must be the motorcycles battery charger.

You can test the battery with an automatic battery charger,
see the section below called How to charge a battery and detect if it is worn out.

You can test the battery, but you could also just replace it.

If you have a voltage meter (a cheap multimeter will do) you can do some basic tests.
When the engine has been off for at least 1-2 hours with ignition key turned off,
100% Charged 12.60 to 12.8v
75% Charged 12.4v
50% Charged 12.1v
25% Charged 11.9v
0% Charged less than 11.8v

When the engine has been off for at least 1-2 hours,
Switch ignition key on and switch the headlight on
(the engine must not be running, some Honda CG125 headlights only work with the engine running),
you need at least 11.5v on a 12v battery or 5.75v on a 6v battery.

When the engine is running the bikes inbuilt battery charger should raise the voltage well above 13v
especially when the engine revs are well above idling.
You need at least 13.2v to start recharging a 12v battery,
only when the voltage gets close to 14.0v will it be charging well.
Above 14.5v a maintenance free battery will be damaged (voltage can go even higher if the bikes charging system is faulty).
A maintenance type battery can handle up to 18v,
bikes designed to use this sort of battery can often have a charging system that supplies up to 18v.
A failing battery can drag the bikes inbuilt battery chargers voltage down
(also a flat battery will drag the voltage down far more than a full battery).
But also a failing bikes inbuilt charger can drag the voltage down,
increase it or even fail completely and so not charge the battery at all.

How to buy and fit a new Battery

Quick reference for front disc brake model.
Positive Battery terminal needs a standard Philips screwdriver (a substitute is in the bikes tool kit).
Negative Battery terminal needs a 8mm spanner.
Battery holder requires a 10mm socket on an extension bar (one nut on right hand side, left side unclips).
Original Battery was a Yuasa YTX5L-BS (12V 4Ah maintenance free VRLA) which was rated at 70 CCA.
From 2010 the Yuasa YTX5L-BS battery has been upgraded to 80 CCA.

You can upgrade from a Yuasa YTX5L-BS to a Yuasa YTZ7S which is the same size on the outside.
(to be exact it is 1mm smaller in height, width and length). But is 6Ah and 130 CCA.
Honda dealers may be far cheaper than others for this battery since they may have a special contract through Honda UK.
I hope to be able to try it sometime, so far I have always used my original 2005 Yuasa YTX5L-BS.

After a lot of research, it appears the only brands of battery's which are widely known and have a decent reputation,
are Yuasa, GS, Varta, Motobatt and Exide. GS is in fact part of Yuasa the company name is GS Yuasa.

I highly recommend you do not install a Gel or Lithium motorcycle battery,
since they are probably not compatible with the motorcycle's electrics as well as many other problems.

The Front Drum brake Honda CG125 electric start bike probably uses
the same battery as the Front Disc brake model mentioned above.

An electric start needs a large amount of current (measured in CCA) to start the engine.
So the 70 CCA (cold crank amps) mentioned above is very important, especially in winter.
Some battery brands on the market claim to be the equivalent of the Yuasa YTX5L-BS,
but are only 55 CCA. These battery's may be around half the price of a 70 CCA Battery,
but they are not the same battery technology. The TX part of the model number stands for VRLA,
or a more exact name is AGM. The AGM battery technology is much more advanced.
It results in a much higher CCA, recharges much quicker and lasts many more years.
Since the manufacturer of the motorcycle fits a AGM battery as standard,
it is a very bad idea to try and fit a non AGM battery,
unless you have an alternative to using the electric start, especially in winter.

The CCA of a battery is sometimes very hard to find. It is not normally printed on the battery.
But it should be in the battery manufacturers catalogue.

A kick-start only Honda CG125 needs much less current to start the engine so a cheaper battery technology is used.
Front drum brake kick-start only model and 12 Volts probably
uses a Yuasa YB2.5L-C or Yuasa YB3L-A or maybe another model, but they are all maintenance type battery's.

Front drum brake kick-start only model and 6 Volts probably uses a Yuasa 6N6-3B (6V 6Ah conventional maintenance)

When buying a new battery, you need the details of the old one.

The voltage should be on the battery and on every light bulb; it will be 12V or 6V.
A 12V battery has 6 compartments (6 filling holes), 6V only has 3.

If the model number is no good you will have to find the following on the battery.
The most important thing is the voltage and the capacity.
There have been many different versions of Honda CG125 over the years
and the voltage and capacity required has changed several times.
The next thing you need is the physical size of the battery, height, width and depth to make sure it fits.
Then you need to know which way round the + and - connections are.
If it's a maintenance battery,
you need to make sure the plastic breather tube is in the correct place or it's supplied with a longer one that will fit.
Maintenance Free batteries have no plastic breather tubes since they are sealed.
Of course the battery compartment of the bike might allow
a different size of battery and plastic breather tube (if the battery has one).
There are different battery terminals requiring different connectors
(sometimes a new battery comes with new connectors to put on the bikes wires).

A new battery will come with an instruction leaflet, if you need to pour the acid in to the battery read it,
it will tell you to stand the battery for at least 30 minutes after pouring the acid in (before charging).
It may tell you to tap the battery to get the air bubbles out
and pour more acid in if the level drops on a maintenance type battery.

A new battery is semi charged when assembled (probably 80% charged),
for maximum performance and life it should be fully charged with a charger before being put in to the bike
(see How to charge a battery and detect its worn out below).
A shop or you can charge it, but it takes time.
After charging for the first time,
if it's a maintenance battery the fluid levels must be checked,
ideally you should pour battery acid in if needed, but only use acid after charging for the very first time with a new battery.
After that you should not use acid. See Battery in the Servicing page for more details.

When fitting a maintenance battery, you must connect the plastic breather tube,
it needs to point down and away from the bike, this is usually in the middle of the bike, just in front of the rear wheel.
This tube may have corrosive gasses and liquids pouring out, so do not let it point at anything other than the ground.

The battery terminals and any exposed (bare metal, not plastic) metal wires connecting to them,
need to be protected from the corrosive gasses from the battery, this might not apply with maintenance free batteries,
but it definitely does for maintenance batteries.
You can put any type of grease over them to protect them, you can also buy special grease for this, but there's no need.
Make sure you do not get grease between the battery terminals and the connectors,
unless the grease is designed to allow voltage to pass through it.

How to charge a battery and detect if it is worn out

Using the correct battery charger is crucial to prevent the battery from being overcharged and permanently damaged.
Most motorcycle and car batteries are now Maintenance Free type (you must only use the type your vehicle is designed for),
this means you cannot top them up with water (distilled or ionised).
Overcharging boils the water in the battery which then escapes,
as the water level drops in the battery the performance will drop until the battery becomes useless.
Overcharging happens when the voltage goes above 14.5V.
Overcharging will also happen if the voltage is above 13.9V for excessive lengths of time with a fully charged battery.
That's why most modern battery chargers
will ether switch off or drop the voltage below 14.0V to stop the battery from being overcharged.

You must also be careful about the charging current,
too much current will overheat the metal plates inside the battery,
which will permanently twist and distort them (severely damaging the battery).
A battery is meant to be charged with a current that's 10% of its capacity (size),
for example a 4 Ah battery would need 0.4A of current.
You can charge at a higher rate but it will harm the battery,
20% is acceptable, 30% is the absolute limit before real damage is expected.

You also have to be careful with modern quality battery chargers
which automatically tests the battery to see if it's refusing to charge.
If it thinks it's refusing to charge it will try to force (recover) it with up to 20V for a short time.
It is crucial if you have one of these chargers that it's designed to work with your battery capacity (size),
the chargers user manual should specify which battery capacity's it will work with.
If your battery is below the minimum capacity,
the charger will probably think it's refusing to charge
and so will try to force it with up to 20V every time you put it on charge (which is very bad for the battery).

There are many battery chargers available.
Some have a switch or mode for motorcycles and another for cars (since their batteries are larger).
Others do not and are designed for ether car or motorcycle batteries only.
It's crucial to choose a battery charger that claims to work with your size of battery.
It's also important to check it charges at a maximum of 14.5V (14.4V and 14.3V are also ok).
As well as the charging current
(if the charger has a car / motorcycle switch or mode it will supply a higher current in car mode than motorcycle).

I have seen a car / motorcycle charger that supplies 2A current in motorcycle mode (that's far too much).
Another car / motorcycle charger that only supplies 0.8A current in motorcycle mode (that's ok),
but claims to only work with 7Ah batteries and above,
since it has a force (recover) automatic mode I would not dare use it on batteries below 7Ah.
I have even seen some battery chargers that are so basic they have no fixed voltage.

Oxford Battery Chargers (reading reviews on Amazon, it appears this brand has reliability problems)

Well known quality Battery Chargers in the motorcycle and car world.

Optimate is the original modern battery charger brand in the motorcycle world.
They allow a few companies to put their own brand on their chargers like Honda and Triumph motorcycles.
But you will always see the Optimate brand on them as well.
Optimate 1 has 0.9A current output, Optimate 4 has 0.8A current output.
Optimate 2 has 0.8A current output, Optimate 5 has 2.8A current output (do not use on motorcycle battery's).
Optimate 3 has 0.6A current output, Optiamte 6 has 5A current output (do not use on motorcycle battery's).

Ctek is the original modern battery charger brand in the car world.
They allow their battery chargers to be rebranded with other peoples brands.
But they are identical in every way to a Ctek charger, the only difference is the label on the top.
Yamaha motorcycles put their brand on them and many car manufacturers and others do as well.
Their cheapest model should have 0.8A current output.
All other models are at least 3.6A (which is far to high for motorcycle battery's),
but if they have a motorcycle mode it will switch the charger down to 0.8A.

Yuasa Battery Chargers (900mA = 0.9A, 600mA = 0.6A, 300mA = 0.3A current output).
Yuasa YCX range are rebadged Ctek.
But they also make their own range of battery chargers that are much cheaper than Optimate or Ctek.
They are much cheaper because they do not have all the advanced recovery modes for severely neglected battery's.
But they are still very good reliable battery chargers
and may even charge healthy battery's more fully than Ctek or Optimate.
Yuasa Yu-Power 12v 900mA Motorcycle Battery Charger model number YPC09A12MC, is widely available (ebay etc..).
In some country's there is a Yuasa Smart Shot 900 model instead.
The following Yuasa models are harder to obtain, try putting their model numbers in to Google to find suppliers.
They do not have the correct attachments for motorcycle battery's, but you can easily adapt them.
Yuasa 12v 600mA Battery Charger Model Number YCP06A12
Yuasa 12v 300mA Battery Charger Model Number YCP03A12
Yuasa 6v 600mA Battery Charger Model Number YCP06A6

Honda CG125 electric start models
use a maintenance free 4 Ah battery
so the ideal charging current is 0.4A = 400mA (that's 10% of the capacity).

Honda CG125 kick start only models
probably use a maintenance 2.5 Ah battery
so the ideal charging current is 0.25A = 250mA (that's 10% of the capacity).

To charge a battery, you must disconnect at least one of the battery terminals from the bike.
This is to stop the battery charger damaging the bike's electrical system.
The negative battery terminal is often hooked up to the bikes metal frame,
so it's best to remove the positive battery terminal (Red wire),
since if the battery charger accidentally touches the metal frame,
it would send the battery charger voltage through the bikes electrical system
if only the negative terminal was disconnect.

Some modern battery chargers like Ctek, Optimate and Yuasa,
may claim you can use them without disconnecting the battery from the bike's electrical system.
That may be true. Many people use them like that and have no problems.
The battery chargers unlike others, have special components inside to smooth out the power.
If anything goes wrong with these special components or you have a mains surge (e.g. lightning strike),
there is still a possibility your bikes electrical system may be damaged.
The only reason I can see for charging a battery like that is if an alarm is fitted to the bike.
An alarm can dramatically shorten the life of a battery unless a charger is switched on all time.

Some modern battery chargers claim you should leave them switched on all the time,
for weeks and months in order to increase the battery life.
Other people would argue doing that will decrease the battery life (unless you have an alarm fitted).
One thing is for sure, if anything goes wrong with the battery charger (due to a fault or lightning strike),
it can easily kill the battery and can even cause a battery fire or acid to pour out of the battery.
The chances are that will not happen, but you will be wearing out the battery charger.

An automatic battery charger will tell you when the battery is fully charged,
a faulty or worn out battery will probably never reach fully charged.

If you have a very old Honda CG125, your battery may be 6 V (volts) instead of the normal 12 V,
if it's 6 V you need a battery charger which is or can switch to 6 V.
If you have a 6 V battery, all of the bikes electrical system and everything that connects to it will be 6 V;
do not change it for a 12 V battery since it would destroy everything.
All batteries will have a label on them stating if they are 6 V or 12 V, if the label has worn off,
all the light bulbs will also state if they are 12 V or 6 V.
6 V maintenance batteries have only 3 compartments to top up with water (distilled or ionised),
12 V maintenance batteries have 6 compartments.