Motorcycle Owners Club

Honda CG125 but also some universal motorcycle information

Honda CG125 Accessories

Screen

Nearly all motorcycles use a standard sized headlight.
The Honda CG125 is smaller than standard (at least the round one is for sure),
so a universal screen will not fit, if it fits to the headlight.
Instead you can buy a universal screen that fits to the handle bars,
the part that goes around the headlight will be larger than needed, but will still work ok.
For more information see Motorcycle Universal Screen Review page.

Touch up paint

UK Honda dealers do not sell touch up paint for the bike.
Large UK Halfords have a paint mixing department, take the left hand side panel off the bike and take it to Halfords,
look for the paint code number on the bikes frame, near where the left hand side panel was on the bike (bottom left).
Tell the Halfords person the bikes make and model, paint code and show them the side panel.
They also may need to know the colour name,
the 2004 to 2006 colours are
Force Silver Metallic
Pearl Twister Blue
Pearl Carnival Red

Side Stand


The front disc brake model has the ability to have a side stand fitted.
Some UK Honda dealers may be able to obtain it, it's not an official UK accessory,
and they have to obtain it from Honda for a foreign Honda CG125 or something like that.
It costs £54 including the spring and bolt. The part may no longer be available in the UK.
Someone has emailed me to say they have fitted a Honda CBR125 side stand instead.
There is also a possibility that the Honda Dylan125 side stand would fit as well (but cannot be sure).
I expect (not sure) the solution for the front drum brake model below will also work.

If you have the front drum brake model,
you will need to replace the front foot rests and the bar that attaches them to the underside of the engine,
you can often find front foot rests including the bar and side stand on ebay.
If you have a very old model of Honda CG125 you may already have a side stand or the ability to fit one.

Fork Gaiters

See Fork Gaiters

Luggage

Givi make a rear carrier rack for the Honda CG125 front disc brake version,
they do not list that model, but call it a Honda CG125 TITAN [2002-2004].
I emailed Givi UK and they said it is the correct rack for the 2004 onwards (front disc brake) UK Honda CG125.
The part number is 25F

I have not fitted a luggage rack, since I have always found on any bike,
that carrying weight behind the back wheel messes up the bikes cornering abilities,
catches the wind (if there is a back box) and cannot carry a lot of weight without making the bike un controllable.

I have found the best place to carry weight is the passenger seat.
You can carry as much weight as you like and it does not catch the wind since your body is sheltering it.
It very slightly effects the cornering ability of the bike with heavy items
(you will probably not even notice unless you excessively lean the bike).
The downside of using the passenger seat is it's much harder to get on and off the bike
(use a pavement curb if your legs are not up to it).
Uphill is much easier to get on and off compared to downhill, a Side Stand (see section above) would also make it easier.
You can buy a motorcycle seat bag, or just tie your item down with the luggage strap supports on the bike.
If using the passenger seat is not an option, try a tank bag or panniers (catches the wind).
You can stop the straps from rubbing the paint off the bike, by putting stickers or other plastic sticky material on the paintwork.
You may be able to find transparent plastic film that is designed to protect paint,
it can often be removed with a hairdryer and residual adhesive with paint thinner or silicon remover.

There are several different makes of luggage,
the links below are reviews of Oxfords top of the range but their bottom of the range is much cheaper and similar.
Some things to look out for is if it's expandable,
can carry a full face helmet and if it converts in to a rucksack when you get off the bike.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/motorcycle-luggage/motorcycle-tail-bag.htm

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/motorcycle-luggage/motorcycle-saddlebag.htm

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/motorcycle-luggage/motorcycle-tank-bag.htm

Seat bags often have 2 bungee cables and a strap that goes under the seat.
The instructions often say that you must use the 2 bungee cables and the strap together for safety.
I can only see the need for using both if you are on a big bike at over 70 mph
with a lot of weight in it and going round a corner with your knee on the ground.

The main reason I can see for using the strap under the seat is to stop someone stealing the bag.

The 2 bungee cables take only a very few seconds to take on and off the bike,
they really hold the bag down and stop it sliding forwards, backwards and sideways.
The Front Disc Brake Honda CG125 has luggage mounting points (can put the bungee hooks through them)
on both sides at the front of the passenger seat.
It also has the rear seat grab rails for a passenger;
near the back of the grab rail underneath is a little piece of metal sticking out to stop the bungee sliding forwards.
If you do not have the same luggage mounting points you should be able to find others on your bike,
you can also buy universal longer bungee cords to stretch to foot rests and other places.

Some seat bags have bungee hook rings on top of the bag as well;
the instructions say they are to strap the top of the bag to the bike when carrying a lot of weight.
I really cannot see them as being necessary,
but they could be used to strap something large and lightweight to the top of the bag.

Anti Vibration Handlebar Devices

See Anti Vibration Handlebar Devices page.

Seat

You can buy seat pads but first try standing up every time the bike stops even for traffic lights,
try taking small roads with many tight bends.
The faster you travel the more you will move around reducing seat and leg problems substantially,
see Improving Performance page for the Honda CG125.

For seat pad reviews
see Five Motorcycle Seat Comfort Pads Compared - Motorcycle Cruiser (Roho Airhawk is available in the UK).

I have read that many people get a normal sheepskin wool rug
and cut it to size and fold the excess underneath the seat to hold it on.
Untried and untested ideas are an envelope you post delicate items in (has bubble wrap inside),
gel computer mouse mat or even polystyrene.
There are padded pedal cyclist shorts and other padded clothing for people who have trouble sitting in normal chairs.

Headlight Bulb

To replace the headlight bulb, see How to replace the Headlight Bulb in the Servicing page.

Bulb on the left is an Incandescent bulb

Bulb on the right is a Halogen bulb

The original headlight bulb probably was a 35/35w incandescent (old fashioned) bulb (not halogen).
You can recognise an incandescent bulb since it will be large and round, it gives out a yellow / orange light.
A halogen bulb is tube shaped and gives out a white light.

BA20d (Bosch) fitment

Bulb and bulb holders have different fitments;
you need to remove the old bulb and take it in to a shop (in UK try Halfords Motorcycle section) or try the internet.
It's probably the BA20d (Bosch) fitment (bayonet like the UK house lights), but I cannot be sure.

The 35/35w stands for the power consumption in watts, one is on dipped headlight, the other for non-dipped headlight.
The more power it uses, the brighter the light and more heat is given off.
The bulb will be 12v if it's in a modern Honda CG125 model,
if it's a very old model it will be 6v (6v original was probably 25/25w).
You can probably buy 12v 35/35w bulbs in incandescent type (£2.99) or halogen (£5 to £10).
There are some fake halogen bulbs around that give out less light than an incandescent bulb.
Be careful were you buy your bulbs from (especially on the internet).

Below are the results of improving the headlight performance by simply changing an incandescent bulb for a halogen bulb.
Below it (last 3 paragraphs) is the Ultimate way of improving headlight performance and requires more parts and skill.

35/35w Halogen will probably improve the headlight performance and last 2 to 3 times longer than a 35/35w incandescent bulb.
One leading light bulb manufacturer states the official light output, measured with a light meter.
The halogen gave out 27% more light on high beam, but only 13% more on low beam compared to their incandescent.
But the halogen is a white light, compared to a yellow / orange light with an incandescent,
so many people state they can see dramatically better with it.
Some manufacturers claim 35 to 45% brighter, than incandescent,
but that's not with a light meter, more like what some / most? human eyes see.

I put a 35/35w Halogen (replacing the original 35/35w incandescent) in the front disc brake version.
It has substantially improved the dipped headlight, it's the whiteness of the light reflecting off the road which really strikes you,
everything it hits reflects so much whiter, clearer and stronger (more contrast and brightness).
The best way to explain it is when a car is behind you, you notice how it lights up the road so much better than you,
well that's the halogen bulb in their car (nearly all cars use halogen).
With the halogen in the bike and no car it's very similar light.
But that's where the comparison with a car ends,
were the light hits the road is identical with ether the halogen or incandescent bulb.
On dipped, the incandescent bulb was very dim and weak at the edges, were the halogen is still bright and strong.
Main beam (not dipped) is still useless, there is just not enough power to project a light beam that far down the road,
and you still end up, not able to see the road directly in front of you, since dipped beam has been switched off.
Cars and most motorbikes use 60w or 65w of halogen for main beam; they also probably have better reflectors and lenses.
The Honda CG125 round headlight
is also smaller than normal round motorcycle headlights (smaller must reduce the light performance).

There are unprofessional scare stories (not from shops or manufacturers) that a headlight designed for an incandescent bulb,
is not designed for the heat to be concentrated in to such a small point (halogen small point,
incandescent large point) and the plastic lens may melt,
and the headlight reflector is not designed for the halogen light pattern, so will not reflect properly and mess up the focus.
These stories are universal for any make of headlight, not from anyone with a Honda CG125,
so these stories may never happen to you.
Halogen 35/35w bulbs are often sold and advertised as universal upgrades for 35/35w incandescent bulbs.
The packaging I found on a Halogen 35/35w says UV Cut suitable for plastic headlamps
(I bet all the halogen bulbs have this even if not mentioned).
I think, if you do not have UV Cut and put it in a plastic lens, the lens can turn yellow?
I also noticed the halogen bulb has a grey solid lump at the end,
I bet that cuts out the heat that's directly pointing and nearest the lens.
As for the reflector not designed for a halogen light pattern,
maybe with a high tech reflector but the Honda CG125 looks low tech.
The scare story claims the focus would be different on the halogen bulb, but I cannot see how,
when the manufacturer advertises the halogen as a upgrade, to replace a customer's existing incandescent headlight bulb.
In Brazil where the new Honda CG125 is built,
they have a 35/35w halogen bulb put in at the factory for the Brazilian market (not for the UK).
Why does the UK Honda CG125 have an incandescent bulb?
I am not sure, maybe old fashioned colour style or to make other road users realise you're not a car.
But just in case, I would watch out for any sign of the lens overheating.
Bike passed UK MOT with halogen bulb in without any adjustment compared to incandescent bulb,
the Hi / Low beams were spot on the correct height.

To replace the headlight bulb, see How to replace the Headlight Bulb in the Servicing page.

Ultimate way of improving headlight performance

Idea 1 (far less effective than Idea 2 but easier to do)
If you can switch the headlight off, you could try putting a higher power consumption bulb in the headlight,
the front disc brake models lights are stuck on all the time (other models will vary).
I would of course watch out for the headlight lens overheating and would not use the lights in the daytime,
since it's hotter then and you would use it for longer and you only have so much spare power from the generator.
You also need to watch out for the headlight wiring and fuses overheating and blowing,
don't put a bulb in that has a massive power consumption increase.

Idea 2
Replace the headlight case with a universal full sized headlight case (Honda CG125 is undersized);
this will probably have a significant effect on performance.
Put a standard 60/55w Halogen bulb in it (a universal full sized headlight is designed for it).
Put a new wire (5A or higher) from the headlight
(since the old wire cannot handle the power consumption of the new bulb) to the handlebars.
Get a universal motorcycle electrical headlight handlebar switch to switch it on and off
(it can also handle the extra power consumption).
An alternative to replacing the headlight handlebar switch is to fit a relay switch,
as long as the headlight handlebar switch can switch the headlight off (some cannot).
Put another new wire (5A or higher) from the new handlebar switch straight in to the battery with a fuse (5A)
to protect the battery and the wire.
There is a small chance 5A is not high enough and so the fuse would blow, 6A will be ok for sure. 12V * 6A = 72w.
Cars often use the same 12V 60/55w Halogen bulb so their wire,
fuses and switches will also work, check out car accessory shops.

The only downside of putting a 60/55w bulb in the bike when it was designed for a 35/35w bulb,
is the bikes generator (alternator) may not have enough spare power for it.
Different Honda CG125 models have different amounts of spare power (the front disc brake model will probably be ok,
electric start front drum model may as well)
If the bikes generator does not have enough spare power, the battery is used to supply the rest.
A generator only produces its full power at 5000 rpm or above (front brake model, see MPH to RPM page)
other models could need even higher rpm.
When the bikes standing still with the engine just idling the generator produces far less power,
if the indicators are flashing even more power is required (so battery is often used).
So I would advise switching the headlight off in the daytime to guarantee the battery is fully recharged.
I would also make sure the headlight is switched off whenever you wish to start the engine
(front disc brake model does this automatically on the original wire).
It's normal for the headlight to get brighter as the engine rpm increases even with the original bulb in the bike,
so dull light when engine idling often becomes bright light when you are at 40mph or above (maybe even 30mph or above).
If the bikes generator and battery really cannot manage (unlikely, unless idling and generator and battery are worn out),
when the headlight is on it could drag all the electrical system down in voltage making everything very dim.
As the battery is discharged since it's supplying the extra power needed,
everything connected to the electrical system will get dimmer and dimmer as the battery goes flat.
But as soon as the engine rpm increases to a high amount
it could become bright again and recharge the battery (or switch the headlight off).